CAPE TOWN & FRANSCHHOEK – GREAT TO BE BACK

Ten years nearly exactly.  That is how long it’s been since we were in South Africa, our first trip to the continent.  It is wonderful to revisit some of the spots and even catch up with some friends from that first trip.  More about that later.

After leaving the spectacular Okavango Delta in Botswana (see previous post here), we took a short flight back to Maun followed by another 2-1/2 hour flight to Cape Town.  Not long after, we finally arrived at the iconic 12 Apostles Hotel & Spa overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.  It is a beautiful spot and close enough to everything on our to-do list.

We had a full day guide provided to us with a list of suggestions where to go.  Unfortunately, the weather was such that Robben Island (infamous for where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 18 years) was out, as was the cable car to the top of Table Mountain (zero visibility).  Nevertheless, we had a fascinating morning at Shimansky Diamonds learning about the history in South Africa. It was hard to leave empty handed, but I managed.

From there, we went to see the adorable penguin colony at Boulders Beach – a must – and toured the Constancia area. What made the day especially memorable was getting to know our guide Sentle (we nicknamed him “Sink”) and hearing his story.  His mom raised him along with two sisters after his dad left.  She was an educator who truly struggled to provide for her children.  Sink took a circuitous route to becoming a guide, which he described as the best thing he’s done in his young life (age 27).

Someone recognized in him drive, ambition, and a willingness to work hard and sponsored him to get to this point. He sees a bright future for himself, one in which he can ultimately take care of his mom.  It’s a great story just beginning to be told.

We spent a wonderful afternoon catching up with Adele & Raymond Klitzner, who were kind enough to have us to their Passover seder 10 years ago.  We connected with them through the LA Jewish community where a significant number of South African Jews moved to many years ago.  The Klitzners reside in the gorgeous Camps Bay area near our hotel, and we talked nonstop about our lives, kids, etc. They did not underestimate the need to be extremely cautious in Cape Town due to rampant crime.  We’re talking keep your car windows rolled up and doors locked at all times.

After departing Cape Town, it was time to (re)visit the spectacular wine areas of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. The first wine estate visited was Lanzurac, which dates all the way back to 1692! Like many of the larger properties in the area, one can visit for a tasting, meal, and/or place to stay.  We tried 5 wines — my favorite was the Pinotage which they are known for.

From there, we ended up having a magnificent lunch at the Delaire Graff Wine Estate — most well worth our return visit.  The property is spectacular.  The food was absolutely delicious.  The service impeccable.  Need I say more?  Well, there’s artwork and of course a Graff Diamond store, which founder Laurence Graff is well known for.  Just in case you need to accessorize for dinner …

Our accommodations in Franschhoek were at the beautiful Le Quartier Francais, part of the Leeu Estate complex.  We walked the area both day and night — Franschhoek is arguably a good deal safer than Cape Town and certainly Johannesburg.  It felt a bit odd to be so relaxed about it, but there were security guards on practically every corner.

We played touristas, complete with taking the Wine Tram which takes various routes to different wineries.  Son Sam guided us to specifically see Holden Manz — where we enjoyed a couple of glasses paired with a classic charcuterie plate.  Perfect for lunch.

Inclement weather wreaked havoc the following day.  I actually went on ChatGPT and asked: “things to do in Franschhoek on a rainy day.”  The answer:  A leisurely lunch at a winery.  Bingo.

The hubby took the hotel shuttle each morning to the Leeu Estate to partake of their fitness center. He was so impressed by the little he saw that we decided to have our leisurely lunch there.  Before dining, a gentleman who leads the extensive grounds crew and gardeners gave us a tour.

The property comprises 250 acres in total – with gardens, various accommodations (from cottages with private pool to single rooms), vineyards, sculptures everywhere, art gallery, award winning restaurants and spa.  Don’t want to drive?  No problem.  There’s a helipad smack in the middle.

Below, view of the main building from the back lawn

The living room.  Many a person has undoubtedly tried to start a conversation with Justine (left) after lots of wine.

Below, a dream come true for gardeners like me … 

The inviting helipad

Life is short; eat dessert(s) first:  Mocha panna cotta & lemon curd millefeuille (aka napolean)  

Bless these ladies for tackling an endless task during the fall season

A beautiful, leisurely, and enjoyable way to wrap up our 6 days in South Africa before moving on to our next stop: Rwanda.

A Stellenbosch laundry owner came up with the perfect name

When you just can’t decide which flavor to choose … at 12 Apostles cafe

Farewell, gorgeous Cape Town

Next stop:  Rwanda