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Venice 7

What a day.

Getting from Florence (see last post) to Venice isn’t really all that complicated.  One can fly, hire a driver, take the train, or rent a car and do the driving.  With all we wanted to accomplish, option 4 got the nod.

Except on this and every Sunday, one needs to backtrack to the airport to access most car rentals.  No problem as we were heading in that direction.  But then the words, “Is this the biggest car you have?”  Well, we’ll manage.  Four adults, four full size suitcases and one carry-on each required some engineering to make it all fit.  All I can say is, the hubby is one helluva good sport (see below).  I drove, Sam navigated and the hubby and Hannah were in the back, wedged in between luggage.

Below — our engineering feat; a very compliant hubby; and finally in the Venice water taxi

What a day.  Did I mention this was Mother’s Day?

Our ambitious itinerary: First to Pisa (how can one not see Pisa?) for the photo op.  Then the walled city of Lucca, but that didn’t happen.  A marathon was taking place and access was impossible. Then to the designer outlet mall (again, how can one not? But where will we fit any purchases??).  Then an attempt at Bologna, but the timing was terrible.  No parking.  I mean NONE.

So, on to Venice.  Here’s a tip:  Do not show up in Venice without first securing parking!  It is easy. We needed the car for our tour the following day so we kept it overnight. And then walking the bags from the garage to the water taxis.  And then the ride to the hotel, the Bauer Palazzo on the Grand Canal.  Here’s some irony:  the rooms were larger and less expensive than in Florence.  A win/win for sure.  But between the endless tolls and the water taxi, it was a lot of euros.  A lot.

As a Venice aside, in case one wonders about the future of this magnificent destination, two luxury hotel brands are making major investments as we speak.  The Bauer Palazzo where we stayed was just acquired.  It will shut down at the end of this year and reopen in 2025 as a Rosewood Hotel property.  Likewise, the Danieli — a few doors away also on the Grand Canal — is shutting down and reopening in 2025 as a Four Seasons.  So it seems the future of Venice is bright.

What was on our itinerary?  A visit to see the artistry of Murano glass being created.  A visit to the remarkable Peggy Guggenheim Museum.  Several strolls through St. Marks square (Piazza San Marco).  Photo ops everywhere.  A gondola ride (I know, but how can one not?) And one helluva dinner (among some great meals).

Above, a Murano artist at work; below, outstanding pizza at 1000 Gourmet

Da Ivo is famous most notably for being a celebrity go-to, long before George Clooney and his pals dined there the night before his wedding.  If one is to believe the proprietor, the group just showed up, with maybe a five-minute advance warning.  One can enter the restaurant directly from a small canal, as in stepping off a water taxi right next to where I happened to be sitting (see below).  There’s also an entrance from the front walkway.  It is very small inside with maybe seating for 40 people.  It is both formal (as in staff in suits and ties) but not stuffy.  An LA restauranteur friend connected us with the propietor Giovanni Fracassi.

That introduction led to a tour of the kitchen — modern, upgraded and producing incredible food in such a small space.  He also took us into the wine cellar, which is out the back and over a small bridge to a nearby building.  Oh, the magic of what is required to run a restaurant in Venice.  It is eye-popping.  That was a wonderful experience.

Above, simply delicious tuna tartare; below, the jam-packed wine cellar.

With Gianni in the kitchen above; words to live by below.

Venice doesn’t require much pre-planning to be enjoyed.  The views, the strolling, the people-watching, the endless shops.  Just go where the mood takes you.  As we did until it was time to say good-bye.  The hubby and I headed home after 24 days of travel; the kids headed to Milan via the train for a couple of days to wind up their two-week trip.  One final water taxi for all, with the last stop at the airport.  Suffice it to say, where else can one take a water taxi to get on an airplane?  Only in Venice …

International TravelThings I Love

FLORENCE! Spring Trip Part 5

florence 2

When it comes to travel stories, there’s likely an element of uncertainty.  We appreciate everything unfolding like “clockwork” and let go of anything that might not work out so well.

Thus, seeing our kids Sam & Hannah waiting outside our hotel in Florence felt like a victory!  Us coming from four prior countries (see previous posts here) and them coming from a few days in Rome (see below) required lots of coordination.  This trip was postponed from 2020 for obvious reasons, so the fact that it finally happened only enhanced the joy.  And it was the beginning of eight wonderful days together, first in Florence and then Venice.

Florence was the second stop on a 2001 trip for me and the hubby.  Those accommodations were at the superb Villa La Massa, a short drive away.  Having accommodations this trip on the Arno with the ability to walk virtually anywhere is an entirely difference experience.  While the Westin Excelsior “excelled” at taking care of all of our needs with very professional staff, the hotel is a bit “long in the tooth.”  Nevertheless, the location and aforementioned personnel more than made up for the smallish bathrooms.  The sweeping rooftop view is below.

The Ponte Vecchio below, a tourist must-see for sure, with the countless jewelry shops from end to end.   Built in 1345!

Son Sam definitely has the “foodie” gene and did lots of research for meals.  It is a pleasure to not be making all the decisions!  Of course finding good food anywhere in Italy is fairly easy.  And the gelato .. oh, my.  Some places get higher ratings than others, but it is difficult to discern.  Vivoli came highly recommended and did not disappoint.  One can just admire the longevity, having first opened in 1929.  We met a fellow American who ate there sometimes twice a day, every day of his Florence stay which was not short.  My flavors below (chocolate mint and coconut).

BELOW:  Repeat visit to Osteria Cinghiale Bianco

Hearing all about the state of hospitality in Italy with proprietor Massimo Masselli above; delicious pastas, ribollita and truffles below. 

I will be devoting a separate blog from our cooking class, which took most of our first day.  A phenomenal and fun experience!  Without question, the other “high point” of Florence was seeing Michelangelo’s David (again for the hubby and me).  This towering masterpiece stands 17′ tall.  David is simply exquisite.  It just takes one’s breath away. And it was created out of a single block of  marble. “How in the world” is all one can ponder …

What else did we do?  Walking, walking, walking.  A bit of shopping but mostly just the windows.  Photos.  And eating.  See for yourself with the included re-caps below.  Not much else is necessary to have a damn good time roaming around this gorgeous, delicious, and historic destination.

Above at Osteria de’Cicalini and below at Le Volte Ristorante — so simple; so delicious.
Favorite meal alert below (if I had to pick) at Ristorante Belcore where we savored the classic “Bistecca alla Fiorentina.”  So good!!

Next post:  The crazy drive to and the how we spent our time in Venice.  Stay tuned.

International TravelThings You Should Know


stockholm 13

Surprised.  In a word, surprised — but only in the most joyous sense.  And that was the reaction to experiencing the beauty of Stockholm, the fourth destination on our Spring Trip.  (Click HERE for previous posts). Separately, Sweden is the last one of the Scandinavian countries to visit.

High-speed train was the transportation of choice from Oslo to Stockholm (just under 6 hours with one change).  Wifi, meals, spacious seating all provided the opportunity to see a bit more of both countries and some downtime as well.  Now, if we only could read our tickets to actually travel in the first-class car on the train for which we paid.  “This is first class?  Oh, well, fine.” Interesting that the conductor mentioned nothing to us when he took our tickets.

Once in Stockholm’s station, we hailed a taxi for the relatively short ride to the hotel.  But not one of the innumerable Tesla taxis, another surprise.  Teslas receive a substantial tax break so many of the taxis are Teslas.  There are charging stations conveniently located.   Some models are very fancy with expensive matte paint.  Go figure.

As I am sometimes inclined to do, I switched hotels two days prior to arrival.  It was a very good decision.

Grand Hotel Stockholm is a member of Leading Hotels of the World.  It is “grand” in the sense of design, but in no way haughty or stuffy.  The staff was amazing, given that they cater to many “famous” guests.  The hubby loved talking Foo Fighters with one of the staff as they have stayed there many times.  Both Mr. Grohl and the late Mr. Hawkins were a joy to receive there.  But I digress.

Below, the view from our room; the very “grand” hotel bar and insanely delicious schnitzel

The hotel is ideally situated on one of Stockholm’s countless waterways, with a beautiful view of the Royal Palace.  That building, like the one in Oslo, is the official residence but likewise functions  as a center of government and is open to the public.  Still, the structure is beautiful as seen below.  Tulips were planted everywhere and in full bloom!

Most fascinating was watching people fishing in the shallow water right in front of us.  As in, we’re in the middle of the city and people are out catching their dinner.  Can anyone translate the photo below?  I gave up trying.

Below, the fisherman from a different angle.  Our hotel is seen in the distance (green roof). 

The architecture is beautiful, like Paris or Prague or other major European capitals.  Where Oslo is quite modern, Stockholm has more of an “old world” feel.  Both are excellent cities in which to meander into different areas, including very high end shopping and quaint shops in the old town area.

A high point was exploring Fotografiska, a unique museum of photography and light installations.  Our visit coincided with an exhibition of more than 100 photographs by Andy Warhol, much from his infamous Studio 54 era.  Rather eye-opening to say the least was this surprising Warhol quote:  “I told them I didn’t believe in art, that I believed in photography.”  Perhaps I’m naive, but I think of him first as an artist (as in canvases) rather than photographer.   Some snaps of the work on display follow.

Photo booth “self portrait”

Socialite/fashion muse Maria Schiano with Jack (no last name necessary), circa 1978.

My personal fashion icon, Carolina Herrera, with whom I share my birthday (not to mention Elvis and David Bowie – Jan. 8).


Sweden’s greatest export?? Stunning Ingrid Bergman, circa 1950, as photographed by Lennart Nilsson (from the National Museum)

Finally, we asked a restaurant owner why Stockholm doesn’t do a better job of promoting itself as a world-class city of beauty.  His response?  “We’re a humble people.”  That’s one way to maintain a sense of elegance….  Below, our transportation to the restaurant that evening via the hotel “courtesy car.”

Next stop:  Part 5 takes us to Florence and our kids!

International TravelThings You Should KnowWining/Dining


Oslo 13

Did you know it’s barely more than an hour flight to get from The Faroes to Norway’s capital city of Oslo?  Well, I didn’t either.  After a couple of days in the scenic Faroes (see last post HERE), we did just that.  It’s important to give a shout out to Atlantic Airways, a very efficient service in this part of the world.

Below, Karl Johans Gate — sort of a main boulevard — leading up to the Royal Palace

No plans were on tap unlike the prior detailed itineraries (especially Iceland — read about it HERE).  Seeing the iconic fjords was preeminent.  My thinking is always that a good concierge is best employed in these matters.

Thus, with guidance we made a quick decision to experience “Norway in a Nutshell.”

The tour embarks in Oslo and ends up in Bergen (Norway’s second largest city), with our choice for a short flight back to Oslo. Other options are either train or car, but a flight seemed like the obvious choice.

Definition of Norway in a Nutshell — the fjords

So out of our four days in Norway, a day and a half would be spent on every type of transportation possible.  That means trains (2), a boat (cruising the fjords), a bus (a relatively short ride), another train to Bergen, and the next day’s flight.  We left most everything in our room at the Oslo hotel (the excellent Hotel Continental).    Our room and belongings were just as we left them upon our return.

Near the town of Voss

The plan went exceedingly well, until .. a train delay from Voss to Bergen. And then a flight delay back to Oslo.  A 45-minute flight took off three hours later.  But we did get food vouchers at the airport, so there’s that.  And then I left my jacket in the Oslo train station.   H&M in Oslo to the rescue!

And why share all of this?  Because this is the stuff of travel, no matter how well one plans.  To me it is building a portfolio of memories and experiences, which is a privilege.  The best is getting to interact with people from everywhere.

Below, only one of these two men has been to a Dodger game.  (The other just liked the cap)

As for Oslo, it’s very modern, very easy to navigate and very friendly.  Spring flowers were just becoming visible. Food offerings (not only Norwegian salmon) are plentiful and delicious. As for the salmon, it’s basically the first thing you see for sale at the airport — it’s EVERYWHERE.  As an aside, how “smart” are the airport designers who have travelers exit security directly into a Duty Free store!  Below, my one salmon meal — at a Turkish restaurant.

Above and below, glimpses of Norway’s very modern capital city.

Below, the clear winner for “Best Meal in Norway (Oslo)” goes to Lofoten.  

Hamachi with soy jelly; excellent wine (credit the hubby); bouillabaisse and outstanding halibut.

Below, from our visit to the Nobel Peace Center where the Peace Prize is awarded annually. 

All of the other Nobel prizes originate in Stockholm.  Alfred Nobel’s story is told along with a history of the recipients.

Above, the original medal first given in 1921 (prior winners did not receive this).  Below, recipient Elie Weisel; no words necessary.

As we head to our next stop completing our Scandinavian visit, enjoy a few more photos of the fjords.  On to Stockholm!

International TravelThings You Should Know


Faroes 1

It’s not a stretch to say many people have either not heard of nor know the location of the Faroes.  Afterall, they are small in size, small in population (54,000) and basically a “flyover” between Iceland and Norway.

Our thinking after the extraordinary Iceland experience (click HERE for previous post) was why not see the Faroes given such close proximity?  Meaning, when might we be back in the area?  And our travel planner from Icepedition is an expert for the area (in addition to Greenland and Iceland).  Below photo, from the Atlantic Airways flight on approach.

It’s very petite.  There’s one airport with two gates and a few car rental companies with petite cars.  The accommodations at beautiful Havgrim Seaside Hotel were — you guessed it — very petite as was the hotel itself.  The shower door functioned as the bathroom door as well.  Quite efficient.  The staff was extremely welcoming and accommodating, and we could walk to Tórshavn, the capital of the Faroes.  Below, the view from our room.

The Faroes are technically part of the Kingdom of Denmark (as is Greenland), but have been self-governing since 1948.  You can read more here.

Icepedition provided extensive sightseeing options, complete with directions and historical details of what we were experiencing.  As with Iceland, the roads are all excellent, well-marked and easy to navigate.  And there are a stunning amount of sheep.  In fact, one needs be aware when driving as they pay little attention to cars! Below is a sample of the directions we were provided for every option.

Below — an ideal spot for a picnic and wine at the Fossá waterfall

The time in the Faroes provided a break from non-stop movement, which is always recommended on any trip.  Enjoy the scenic photos.  Next stop:  Oslo

Below, two photos of  Tjørnuvík Village, which is favored by surfers 

Last two photos from Saksun area where many visitors go for hiking 

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ICELAND! Spring Trip – Part 1

IMG20220423114251 (1)

It is always a joy to say these magic words:  “Here we go!”  As to our destinations, below is a visual of the itinerary shared in my previous post (click HERE).  If you feel as I do, a picture indeed is worth a thousand words.

And what better way to start off the trip than a spectacularly uneventful, early-arriving flight into Heathrow?  With just 18 hours on the ground before the next flight, booking accommodations at the airport made the most sense.  The Sofitel is literally attached to Terminal 5, with all sorts of public transportation steps away — the Underground (Piccadilly line) and non-stop train to Paddington station.  It is a very nice, reasonable hotel with luggage trolleys in the lobby.  Now, if they had just managed to provide that 5am wake-up call.

Alas, a small hiccup was thus encountered which led to a missed flight to Reykjavik (miles already back in our account).  Fortunately, an afternoon flight had seats so in total we lost maybe six hours.  Activities could easily be made up upon arrival in Iceland with our rental car and flexible schedule.  For this particular ground itinerary — along the “southern Ring Road/Highway 1” including hotel bookings, sightseeing musts and restaurants — I engaged Chris Gordon’s company Icepedition. Chris became know to me from Wendy Perrin’s WOW list of area experts.

Selected shots from Reykjavik below

To a person, the response upon hearing one is going to Iceland is either:  “Oh, it’s on my bucket list!” or “You will love it!”  The reasons are now clear.  It is very friendly.  The scenery is truly spectacular.  There are a great many different things to do.  The food (except horse and reindeer offerings which I can’t even imagine) is contemporary cuisine incorporating local flavors and fresh seafood.  Iceland is easy to navigate on very good roads. There are endless beautiful waterfalls.  And did I mention the scenery is spectacular?

It’s really just since 2010 that Iceland seems to be on most travelers’ radar.  Frankly, I don’t have an answer as to why but it’s a safe bet there’s a connection to Game of Thrones.  Scenes filmed in Iceland are in every season (2011-2019). One thing we did find it a bit curious is few if any signs have English translations.  Just a side note; not a complaint!

As for our experience, feast your eyes on the photos.  Iceland is everything it is reputed to be and more.  Next up:  The Faroe Islands.

1.  Calling all GOT fans — filming site Black Sand Beach

known for the stone stacks and basalt columns in addition to the black sand

2. A smidgen of the Blue Lagoon — it was closed for maintenance during our stay.

 3. Two shots from exploring the Katla volcano

It is way overdue for an eruption (typically every 60-80 years).  The last one was 1918.  Guide Thor (yes, he is of Viking heritage) told us every visitor is tracked in case they need to be warned!  He provided us with “cramp-on’s” which are metal spikes that fit the bottom of a shoe to provide stability walking the terrain or going through the glacier caves (we opted out of that activity).

4.  Diamond Beach   The ice chunks could chill endless cocktails.

Iconic Glacier LagoonIt is just remarkable.

 Seljalandsfoss Waterfall where you can actually walk behind the falls (if you don’t mind getting soaked).