What a day.

Getting from Florence (see last post) to Venice isn’t really all that complicated.  One can fly, hire a driver, take the train, or rent a car and do the driving.  With all we wanted to accomplish, option 4 got the nod.

Except on this and every Sunday, one needs to backtrack to the airport to access most car rentals.  No problem as we were heading in that direction.  But then the words, “Is this the biggest car you have?”  Well, we’ll manage.  Four adults, four full size suitcases and one carry-on each required some engineering to make it all fit.  All I can say is, the hubby is one helluva good sport (see below).  I drove, Sam navigated and the hubby and Hannah were in the back, wedged in between luggage.

Below — our engineering feat; a very compliant hubby; and finally in the Venice water taxi

What a day.  Did I mention this was Mother’s Day?

Our ambitious itinerary: First to Pisa (how can one not see Pisa?) for the photo op.  Then the walled city of Lucca, but that didn’t happen.  A marathon was taking place and access was impossible. Then to the designer outlet mall (again, how can one not? But where will we fit any purchases??).  Then an attempt at Bologna, but the timing was terrible.  No parking.  I mean NONE.

So, on to Venice.  Here’s a tip:  Do not show up in Venice without first securing parking!  It is easy. We needed the car for our tour the following day so we kept it overnight. And then walking the bags from the garage to the water taxis.  And then the ride to the hotel, the Bauer Palazzo on the Grand Canal.  Here’s some irony:  the rooms were larger and less expensive than in Florence.  A win/win for sure.  But between the endless tolls and the water taxi, it was a lot of euros.  A lot.

As a Venice aside, in case one wonders about the future of this magnificent destination, two luxury hotel brands are making major investments as we speak.  The Bauer Palazzo where we stayed was just acquired.  It will shut down at the end of this year and reopen in 2025 as a Rosewood Hotel property.  Likewise, the Danieli — a few doors away also on the Grand Canal — is shutting down and reopening in 2025 as a Four Seasons.  So it seems the future of Venice is bright.

What was on our itinerary?  A visit to see the artistry of Murano glass being created.  A visit to the remarkable Peggy Guggenheim Museum.  Several strolls through St. Marks square (Piazza San Marco).  Photo ops everywhere.  A gondola ride (I know, but how can one not?) And one helluva dinner (among some great meals).

Above, a Murano artist at work; below, outstanding pizza at 1000 Gourmet

Da Ivo is famous most notably for being a celebrity go-to, long before George Clooney and his pals dined there the night before his wedding.  If one is to believe the proprietor, the group just showed up, with maybe a five-minute advance warning.  One can enter the restaurant directly from a small canal, as in stepping off a water taxi right next to where I happened to be sitting (see below).  There’s also an entrance from the front walkway.  It is very small inside with maybe seating for 40 people.  It is both formal (as in staff in suits and ties) but not stuffy.  An LA restauranteur friend connected us with the propietor Giovanni Fracassi.

That introduction led to a tour of the kitchen — modern, upgraded and producing incredible food in such a small space.  He also took us into the wine cellar, which is out the back and over a small bridge to a nearby building.  Oh, the magic of what is required to run a restaurant in Venice.  It is eye-popping.  That was a wonderful experience.

Above, simply delicious tuna tartare; below, the jam-packed wine cellar.

With Gianni in the kitchen above; words to live by below.

Venice doesn’t require much pre-planning to be enjoyed.  The views, the strolling, the people-watching, the endless shops.  Just go where the mood takes you.  As we did until it was time to say good-bye.  The hubby and I headed home after 24 days of travel; the kids headed to Milan via the train for a couple of days to wind up their two-week trip.  One final water taxi for all, with the last stop at the airport.  Suffice it to say, where else can one take a water taxi to get on an airplane?  Only in Venice …

When it comes to travel stories, there’s likely an element of uncertainty.  We appreciate everything unfolding like “clockwork” and let go of anything that might not work out so well.

Thus, seeing our kids Sam & Hannah waiting outside our hotel in Florence felt like a victory!  Us coming from four prior countries (see previous posts here) and them coming from a few days in Rome (see below) required lots of coordination.  This trip was postponed from 2020 for obvious reasons, so the fact that it finally happened only enhanced the joy.  And it was the beginning of eight wonderful days together, first in Florence and then Venice.

Florence was the second stop on a 2001 trip for me and the hubby.  Those accommodations were at the superb Villa La Massa, a short drive away.  Having accommodations this trip on the Arno with the ability to walk virtually anywhere is an entirely difference experience.  While the Westin Excelsior “excelled” at taking care of all of our needs with very professional staff, the hotel is a bit “long in the tooth.”  Nevertheless, the location and aforementioned personnel more than made up for the smallish bathrooms.  The sweeping rooftop view is below.

The Ponte Vecchio below, a tourist must-see for sure, with the countless jewelry shops from end to end.   Built in 1345!

Son Sam definitely has the “foodie” gene and did lots of research for meals.  It is a pleasure to not be making all the decisions!  Of course finding good food anywhere in Italy is fairly easy.  And the gelato .. oh, my.  Some places get higher ratings than others, but it is difficult to discern.  Vivoli came highly recommended and did not disappoint.  One can just admire the longevity, having first opened in 1929.  We met a fellow American who ate there sometimes twice a day, every day of his Florence stay which was not short.  My flavors below (chocolate mint and coconut).

BELOW:  Repeat visit to Osteria Cinghiale Bianco

Hearing all about the state of hospitality in Italy with proprietor Massimo Masselli above; delicious pastas, ribollita and truffles below. 

I will be devoting a separate blog from our cooking class, which took most of our first day.  A phenomenal and fun experience!  Without question, the other “high point” of Florence was seeing Michelangelo’s David (again for the hubby and me).  This towering masterpiece stands 17′ tall.  David is simply exquisite.  It just takes one’s breath away. And it was created out of a single block of  marble. “How in the world” is all one can ponder …

What else did we do?  Walking, walking, walking.  A bit of shopping but mostly just the windows.  Photos.  And eating.  See for yourself with the included re-caps below.  Not much else is necessary to have a damn good time roaming around this gorgeous, delicious, and historic destination.

Above at Osteria de’Cicalini and below at Le Volte Ristorante — so simple; so delicious.
Favorite meal alert below (if I had to pick) at Ristorante Belcore where we savored the classic “Bistecca alla Fiorentina.”  So good!!

Next post:  The crazy drive to and the how we spent our time in Venice.  Stay tuned.

Surprised.  In a word, surprised — but only in the most joyous sense.  And that was the reaction to experiencing the beauty of Stockholm, the fourth destination on our Spring Trip.  (Click HERE for previous posts). Separately, Sweden is the last one of the Scandinavian countries to visit.

High-speed train was the transportation of choice from Oslo to Stockholm (just under 6 hours with one change).  Wifi, meals, spacious seating all provided the opportunity to see a bit more of both countries and some downtime as well.  Now, if we only could read our tickets to actually travel in the first-class car on the train for which we paid.  “This is first class?  Oh, well, fine.” Interesting that the conductor mentioned nothing to us when he took our tickets.

Once in Stockholm’s station, we hailed a taxi for the relatively short ride to the hotel.  But not one of the innumerable Tesla taxis, another surprise.  Teslas receive a substantial tax break so many of the taxis are Teslas.  There are charging stations conveniently located.   Some models are very fancy with expensive matte paint.  Go figure.

As I am sometimes inclined to do, I switched hotels two days prior to arrival.  It was a very good decision.

Grand Hotel Stockholm is a member of Leading Hotels of the World.  It is “grand” in the sense of design, but in no way haughty or stuffy.  The staff was amazing, given that they cater to many “famous” guests.  The hubby loved talking Foo Fighters with one of the staff as they have stayed there many times.  Both Mr. Grohl and the late Mr. Hawkins were a joy to receive there.  But I digress.

Below, the view from our room; the very “grand” hotel bar and insanely delicious schnitzel

The hotel is ideally situated on one of Stockholm’s countless waterways, with a beautiful view of the Royal Palace.  That building, like the one in Oslo, is the official residence but likewise functions  as a center of government and is open to the public.  Still, the structure is beautiful as seen below.  Tulips were planted everywhere and in full bloom!

Most fascinating was watching people fishing in the shallow water right in front of us.  As in, we’re in the middle of the city and people are out catching their dinner.  Can anyone translate the photo below?  I gave up trying.

Below, the fisherman from a different angle.  Our hotel is seen in the distance (green roof). 

The architecture is beautiful, like Paris or Prague or other major European capitals.  Where Oslo is quite modern, Stockholm has more of an “old world” feel.  Both are excellent cities in which to meander into different areas, including very high end shopping and quaint shops in the old town area.

A high point was exploring Fotografiska, a unique museum of photography and light installations.  Our visit coincided with an exhibition of more than 100 photographs by Andy Warhol, much from his infamous Studio 54 era.  Rather eye-opening to say the least was this surprising Warhol quote:  “I told them I didn’t believe in art, that I believed in photography.”  Perhaps I’m naive, but I think of him first as an artist (as in canvases) rather than photographer.   Some snaps of the work on display follow.

Photo booth “self portrait”

Socialite/fashion muse Maria Schiano with Jack (no last name necessary), circa 1978.

My personal fashion icon, Carolina Herrera, with whom I share my birthday (not to mention Elvis and David Bowie – Jan. 8).

 

Sweden’s greatest export?? Stunning Ingrid Bergman, circa 1950, as photographed by Lennart Nilsson (from the National Museum)

Finally, we asked a restaurant owner why Stockholm doesn’t do a better job of promoting itself as a world-class city of beauty.  His response?  “We’re a humble people.”  That’s one way to maintain a sense of elegance….  Below, our transportation to the restaurant that evening via the hotel “courtesy car.”

Next stop:  Part 5 takes us to Florence and our kids!

If one characterizes what Los Angeles is best known for, it is the film industry.  And that iconic line from The Wizard of Oz invoked for the title of this post is completely apt applying it to the newest — and I believe most outstanding — cultural institution in L.A. That is the  Academy Museum of Motion Pictures. The main entrance is below. Native Angelenos like myself remember the site of this building as formerly The May Company Department Store (my grandmother worked there in the 1950’s).

The Museum opened last fall to much fanfare after many delays (even before Covid).  The marquee names who made it possible through their contributions are a who’s who of the industry — Spielberg, Saban, Geffen, Katzenberg, Disney, Dolby, Lucas — to name but a few. Beyond that, the museum is a treasure trove of film history with priceless original objects on display. Most importantly, they do an excellent job taking the visitors from original concept drawings to a completed character or film scene.  It is amazing.

Daughter Hannah works in production at Disney Animation and pointed out key parts we might not have otherwise appreciated.  The Pixar installation is quite remarkable, and the only portion of the building where photography is banned.

Whether you live in Los Angeles or are planning a visit, go to this museum. It is a true gem. Some of the amazing things at the museum follow below.  These just barely scratch the surface.

1. The Paul Newman Rolex watch, which realized $17.8 million at a 2017 auction.  Given to him by wife Joanne Woodward.  Read the story here.

2.  Who but Cher could have pulled off this outfit?

3. The original storyboard for Psycho’s shower scene.

I have never watched the movie (nor will); too scary.

4.  Original concept illustrations for Frozen’s Elsa and Anna

5.  Original Concept and Storyboard for Toy Story’s Woody and Buzz

6. The famous scene from Hitchcock’s North by Northwest with Cary Grant and Eva Marie Saint, followed by the backdrop of Mt. Rushmore used in the film. 

6.  Follow the Yellow Brick Road 

7.  “da-dum da-dum”

8. The Dolby Family Terrace has amazing views!  The iconic Hollywood sign is barely visible between me and Hannah.

We kept an eye on the NFL playoff game taking place during our visit.  As we were leaving, we huddled around son Sam’s phone to see the Rams pull out an epic victory over the Bucs.  An amazing day all around.

 

When considering where to enjoy a favorite holiday, the beautiful destination of Savannah, Georgia, was unanimously selected.  After three terrific days in Charleston (click HERE ) we continued our family trip just two hours’ away.  This was a first visit for all.

En route, we simply had to go back to a surprise find from the hubby’s and my trip last year (click HERE) especially for son Sam to see.  Magiamo in Hilton Head is “your home away from home” for any fan of The Ohio State University.  Football, basketball and even Cleveland teams are all represented at this fun eatery, a must-see destination.  We were told that folks show up hours in advance for big games in order to view with other rabid fans.  How fun is that??   Below, Sam shares with his followers:  “You cannot believe this place.  OH-IO!”

Accommodations were at The Alida, which enabled us to walk to many spots for both dining and sight-seeing.  Below, the hotel is to the left while the Plant Riverside complex (shops, restaurants, other hotels)  is seen ahead.

Below, the walkway along the Savannah River — which is on the other side of the Plant Riverside building (above).

Savannah could be the most dog-friendly city ever.  I’m fairly certain I saw more people with dogs than with children!  There are abundant parks and pathways for our furry friends.  Our favorite one is seen below (cuteness overload).

Highlights of the many sights enjoyed:

Forsyth Park (in the Historic District – South)   A great number of folks walking around, enjoying the lush grounds.

Congregation Mickve Israel  — there’s a favorite word in Judaism which is “beshert” or “meant to be.”   In this case it was our timing for seeing the synagogue. Although closed, we randomly arrived just when the flowers were being delivered for that evening’s Sabbath service.  The person on duty allowed us to come in for a brief moment to see the inside.  Someone was looking out for us for which we were the grateful recipients.  What a magnificent building — the third oldest synagogue in the U.S.

Birthplace for The Girl Scouts

A truly fun favorite, the Prohibition Museum where these are three of the best signs:

Finally, a few words about this “Fit for Foodies” city.  Two in particular of our restaurants were outstanding — the iconic Olde Pink House (the best fried chicken ever) and an unplanned meal at Sam’s great find, Fleeting at the newish Thompson Hotel.   Not only was the food delicious, but the view (below) from the rooftop bar is a must-see.  And, finally, Leopold’s for ice cream where people have been coming for 102 years.

When one is too busy eating, one must share a photo from Leopold’s Instagram feed above.  If taken during our visit, you’d see the line for as far as the photo goes.  This place and so many others make Savannah a terrific destination.   Can’t wait to go back.

Does anyone NOT spend a lot of time on the internet in the course of researching and planning travel?  I think not.  It was in this spirit that I was noodling around and thought for fun I would Google myself.  I know, you’ve never done that; right?

Most of what I found I knew … no, I don’t have a criminal record nor am I a deadbeat.  But on about the fourth page, I found a link to an article I wrote in 2015!  And it’s held up quite well.  While I’ve writing/posting as “Travel with Teri B” since 2012, this website is just two years old.  That means the link to the column has not  previously been shared.  And so here you are from Travel Post Monthly:

Eating in Spain: “Basqueing” in the Glow of San Sebastian

Oh, how I remember the meals so well:  Arzak, Martin Berasategui (possibly my favorite restaurant ever) … the extraordinary Guggenheim Bilbao Museum and the beautiful Hotel Maria Cristina.  I’m often asked about favorite places and/or return visits.  San Sebastian is at the top of my list.

So enjoy this piece from a few years ago.  Que aproveche!