BAHRAIN – A SHORT HOP FROM SAUDI ARABIA

Under “normal” circumstances, a Gulf Air flight to Bahrain from Jeddah would have been 2 hours and then a very short drive to the hotel.  But the Bahrain airspace has ebbed and flowed depending on obvious circumstances, and our planned flight was cancelled.  Thus, instead of flying into Bahrain, we flew into Saudi Arabia’s closest airport — Damman — and then were driven the 90 minutes across the border.

First, that “substitute” airline, Saudia – the country’s national carrier?  In a word, wow, from the swiftness of check-in to the emailed receipt for our bag tags to the extremely helpful and most pleasant staff.  An added bonus to the trip was the additional drive over the King Faud Causeway that connects the two countries.

But, first, where exactly is Bahrain?  I’m guessing most people don’t know even if they have heard of the country.  “You know — it’s one of those places in the Middle East.” Frankly I wasn’t so sure myself, so the map below explains it well.

Our stops clockwise from bottom left:

Jeddah, Madinah, Bahrain, Oman

If you read my previous post (The Middle East Here and Now), you know we started in Jeddah, Saudia Arabia, with a day trip to Madinah.  We then arrived in Bahrain and will conclude this trip in Oman after 17 days in Africa.

Back to the drive into Bahrain.  Immigration is via multiple drive-through kiosks that look more like a food outlet than a serious security checkpoint.  And it is serious.  While we didn’t exit the car, we presented our passports and were fingerprinted by a small device that stretched into the car.  Our visas were visible online once they knew our identities.  All told, the entire process was less than 15 minutes.  Forget to obtain a visa in advance? No worries, there’s an office handling that on the spot.

The immediate impression of Bahrain is that of a mini Dubai — modern high rise buildings and shopping malls on the water.  Our hotel is situated right in the middle, The Four Seasons Bahrain Bay, which includes several pools and a white sand beach.  The fact that our view includes a nearby mall with a Cheesecake Factory and P.F. Chang is an immediate reminder that we’re never far away from home.

I must applaud the hotel for their attention to detail.  It might seem insignificant, but it shows a level of awareness that is appreciated.

First, the “hair station” (my name for it), where there’s a well-lit and mirrored space with a dedicated plug for a blow drier and/or flat iron.  And away from the bathroom (no humidity!).  Photo below.

Next photo below — inserting a branded bookmark upon noticing what I was using (part of a boarding pass).

We had the hotel arrange a half-day tour of Bahrain, including the historic fort (a UNESCO World Heritage site), the souk area which is wall-wall shops of every type, and definitely a trip high-point – a visit to the Bahrain Synagogue.

Below, the pathway to the fort — also a popular jogging route!

Above, modern Bahrain as the backdrop to the ancient fort.

Below, with guide Nada

We only learned about the synagogue’s existence from our rabbi shortly before we left.  What a blessing to see this very small but mighty house of worship (also called The House of Ten Commandments).  It was first opened in 1930 when the Jewish population totalled 800-900.  After the State of Israel was established in 1948, there was a massive exodus.  Today there are roughly 36 Jews here. The sabbath and Jewish festivals are observed with a rabbi brought in from nearby Dubai or elsewhere as needed.  It is a beautiful and sacred site with a velvet covered ark housing the torah. The torah was a 2019 gift from Jared Kushner and is dedicated to the founding rabbi.

After a bit of retail therapy, we spent the remaining time at the pool.  The hotel itself is on “reclaimed” land (from the sea) hence the beach created along with the pools.  The only thing missing was consistent sun.  It was divine, nonetheless.

We ventured about on our own visiting the Pearling Path Museum and the National Museum.  Pearling has been a large industry for centuries in the country.  In fact, our guide’s husband was third generation.  Pearls are grown locally and are of course featured in the ubiquitous jewelry shops in malls and the souks.

Below, the Pearling Path Visitor Center

Below, the sculpture “garden” in front of the National Museum

Performing arts theater below is part of the museum complex

One of the great joys of travel is deciding “that’s it” for the day and having no regrets.  At this point, there’s no inclination to push on if we have gotten a sufficient impression of the area.  No “we should have …”; i.e., no regrets.

Lovely, hospitable, friendly, and welcoming people — those Bahrainis.  Proud of their heritage.  A totally enjoyable time.  Next stop:  Africa

Definitely feeling the love here — of course I shared this trip is an early celebration of our 40th!

A bit of Bahrain as viewed from our room