This is the fourth in a series of posts. Previous post is HERE
Are you surprised this country is included in our itinerary? Based on the fact that our restaurant server told us we were the second Americans he waited on in a couple of years, I’m guessing your answer is yes. Meaning not many come to this part of the world.
Let me backtrack to share how we got here. Driving. Croatia was the only country en route that would allow a rental car from the EU to Serbia. Thus, we drove from Ljubljana to the Zagreb airport solely for the purpose of a rental car exchange. Drop off at Europcar and pick up at Dollar. Unlike the prior rental car (a wonderful Cupra Leon by Volkswagon), I couldn’t get rid of this one (a Renault something) fast enough. In fact, Dollar picked up the car from the Belgrade hotel. But, Dollar staff emailed me several times regarding our timing at Zagreb and were very responsive. So they get credit for that!
The drive is not particularly interesting, bordering on boring. And long. Interestingly, the roads are better in Serbia than in Croatia (very bumpy). And then came the boarder crossing. Wow. They actually stamped our passports upon entry into Serbia. About 45 minutes in line, but we’re told that was because it’s holiday time approaching the Orthodox Easter.
Below, a very good likeness of Serbia’s most famous actor: Karl Malden
The fact that someone likened Belgrade to Paris is a stretch. Yes, there are tons of outdoor cafes, but not much else to remind one of Paris. Still, Belgrade has it’s own charm and character. It is brimming with tourists and locals out walking and shopping everywhere we went. Belgrade prides itself on offering a vast array of culture, from festivals for film, theater, music and even beer. A bit of everything is available!
I try to incorporate a visit to either a Synagogue or Jewish community center wherever we go. In Belgrade, it is Synagogue Sukat Shalom. Our guide showed us the way. Upon arriving, we could see a group of men chatting by the synagogue, but we were quite a distance from them, outside massive gates. No one was answering the phone or responding to our knock. This was the last day of Passover so that explained the lack of phone contact.
Below, outside the massive gates. The top of Bruce’s cap is barely visible at the bottom.
We were frantically waving to the men shown below inside the yellow circle!
Eventually someone saw us waiving and then an enormous security guard emerged from the gate. We asked to go inside and he responded with a hard no. Our excellent guide pleaded with him in Serbian and I could tell we were getting nowhere. It is the holiday and no can be admitted which made no sense at all. I told him we just want to see the synagogue building inside the gates. No. I said politely that it is the custom of Jews everywhere to welcome other Jews in whenever they are encountered. Still no. Undaunted, I kept pressing. He then looked at us carefully and said “are you Jewish?” Yes, of course. And then the proverbial $64,000 question — the test of tests to see if we are telling the truth.
The guard: “What do you eat on Yom Kippur?” Me: “Nothing!!” And with that, we were permitted to enter, having passed the “test.” I’m certain I detected a slight grin from him.
He told our guide that with all the recent turmoil, a lot of extra precaution is necessary. People claim to be Jewish to gain access and then behave disrespectfully. Thus, he is extremely careful as to providing entrance to strangers.
Below, inside the beautiful Synagogue
The head rabbi, Dr. Isak Asiel, chatted with us for a few minutes about the history of the synagogue and the community at large of roughly 3,000. It is primarily sephardic in practice now. He shared that a large delegation of Los Angeles Jews had visited a few weeks earlier. Our brief time together was special and memorable.
Below, Republic Square – National Museum of Serbia behind the stage; National Theater on the right
We saw a good deal of the older part of Belgrade on foot with our terrific guide Bojana. Our close friend in LA — originally from Montenegro — knows the Balkan countries well and provided contacts and what we must see. Connections matter, especially in travel!
Above, Bojana takes us to her favorite restaurant The Two Deer for lunch. The restaurant dates back to 1832! Below, fresh-caught trout was delicious as was the chicken soup and classic Serbian bread with paprika.
Below, the Sava River which flows into the nearby Danube. A view of modern Belgrade on the left.
Back to flying for the next stop — to Chisinau, Moldava. To be continued ..
